Einstein discovers relativity and Madame Curie discovers (to her cost) radioactivity. Plastic is invented and a new method of catching criminals is discovered in Paris, fingerprinting.
Edward VII becomes King on the death of Queen Victoria in 1901. England is the only ‘superpower’ at the time, its empire spans the globe from Canada, Australia to India and parts of Africa and our influence was felt the world over. It was an exciting time in jewellery manufacturing and design. Platinum became the metal of choice for the new diamonds mined from South Africa, there was enormous wealth and the jewellery was made to match. It was a time of opulent extravagance in jewellery as in everything else.
A new trend began, one that was to reflect the less ornate and lighter styles of the new era. One made possible by the widespread use of the stronger metal being used, platinum. Platinum could safely hold stones in thinner more delicate mounts, which led to the Garland style. This was characterised by garlands, bows, tassels, ribbons and swags. These were made as brooches, rings and pendants.
Garland Style
This style was adopted by all the major jewellers of the day, predominantly Cartier who led the way. Tradition has it that for Edward VII’s coronation 27 new tiaras were ordered from Cartier alone. Cartier pioneered the use of platinum enabling the delicate fragile looking creations to have both form and function everything was used for inspiration, art, architecture, fashion, even ballet. Other leading jewellers began to copy the trends, Chinese and Indian influences were used with great success by Fabergé, Boucheron, Tiffany, Chaumet and Lacloche.
Every style from Ancient Greek, Classical Roman, French Baroque and Rococo, Napoleonic and Second Empire styles were used. Scrolls, feathers, tassels, swags of foliage, garlands of flowers, ribbon ties in flowing bow knots, triumphal laurel wreaths and the classic Greek Key design were all recreated with subtlety and taste and they ruled jewellery fashion. The monochromatic signature look these designers achieved relied on platinum, diamonds and pearls for its wondrous effect.
The sudden influx of diamonds from the South African mines facilitated the introduction of spectacular new cuts like the marquise, baguette, kite, triangle and briolette.
Platinum Lace