J. E. Caldwell emerald and diamond ring. Diagonally set with one central marquise shape old cut natural Colombian emerald with minor clarity enhancement in an open back claw setting with an approximate weight of 0.90 carats, and one central marquise shape old cut diamond in an open back claw setting with a weight of 1.00 carats, further set with ten square step cut diamonds in open back channel settings with a total weight of 0.30 carats, and twelve rectangular baguette cut diamonds in open back claw settings with a total weight of 0.84 carats, and fourteen round old cut diamonds in open back grain settings with a total weight of 0.50 carats. The combined approximate diamond weight is 2.64 carats, to an asymmetric crossover cluster design with linear pierced gallery, fancy shape backholing and integrated split shoulders which taper through to a ridged square shank. Marked platinum, signed ‘JEC & Co’, numbered 'F20 14 3', American, circa 1940, accompanied by Gemmological Certification Services report #78155-36.

Born in Poughkeepsie, New York in 1813, James Emmot Caldwell moved to New York City aged 14 to hone his skills as a silversmith apprentice, eventually gaining the status of Master Silversmith in 1835.

After settling in Philadelphia, J.E. Caldwell & Co. was incorporated in 1868, and would eventually go on to become the landmark jeweller of the city.  Known for offering styles that reflected and complimented the fashions of the era, J.E Caldwell’s collections included jewellery, silver, and objets d’art in the European style his American buyers had a penchant for.

Remaining a family-run business after the death of the founder, J.E. Caldwell began to establish themselves as a name offering some of the most significant examples of American Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque jewellery. The opulent designs were elegant, romantic and highly decorative as people sought to display their newfound wealth in their jewellery and fashion choices.

During the Art Deco period, J.E. Caldwell flourished further, celebrating geometric lines, diamonds, and bold colour contrasts. They were known to work with Oscar Heyman (known as the jeweller’s jeweller) to manufacture some of their finest designs; a coming together of two highly celebrated American jewellery names.

This ring is in excellent condition.