Marcus and Co. emerald and yellow diamond ring, American, circa 1895.

This ring is in excellent condition commensurate with its age.

Our in-house gemmologists have assessed the emerald as likely coming from the old Colombian mines.

The American jewellery firm of Marcus & Co. was based in New York City and is best known for their high-quality Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces. The company was founded by Herman Marcus, who was born in Germany where he trained at Ellemeyer, the court jewellers in Dresden. It was in Europe that he learnt enameling techniques which were not common in the US at that time, and this expertise led to his first job in New York, with Tiffany & Co.

In 1864 he started his own firm, a partnership with Theodore Starr, forming Starr and Marcus, and though highly successful, the firm was dissolved in 1877. In 1884, Marcus became a partner in the firm Jacques and Marcus, where his son William was already a partner, and in 1892, when Georges Jacques retired, the firm became known as Marcus & Co. By this point, Herman Marcus was already well known and respected by the New York City jewellery community.

The firm are renowned today for their Art Nouveau jewels, which showcase their affinity for plique-à-jour enamel work, as exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle. Their bold use of brightly coloured enamel mixed with rarely used gemstones, such as zircon, tourmaline and chrysoberyl, is unmistakable, and represents a confidence in design not usually seen in this period.

This particular ring is typical of the 'Hindu' or 'Neo-Indian' style, which took inspiration from antique Indian jewels that Herman Marcus and his sons, William and George, had seen and purchased during their travels to the country in 1895. Many important Marcus & Co, pieces at the turn of the century were designed in this style which was highly regarded at the time, with pieces exhibited at the first exhibition organised by the Society of Arts and Crafts in Boston in 1897, and then again in 1899. These pieces are identified by their carved goldwork, enameling, and use of gemstones prized in India, such as pearls and emeralds. Indeed, this ring, along with other pieces created in this style, feature Colombian emeralds, a gem which is often seen in 17th and 18th century Indian jewellery.