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Diamond and ruby target ring, French, circa 1915.

Platinum, Diamond, Ruby

£11,500

Price GBP -
Diamond and ruby target ring. Set with a cushion shape old mine diamond in an open back rubover setting with an approximate weight of 1.00 carats, encircled by a single row of calibre cut natural rubies in open back channel settings with a combined approximate weight of 0.72 carats, further set with six round eight cut diamonds in open back grain settings with a combined weight of 0.06 carats. The total approximate diamond weight is 1.08 carats, to a cushion shape target cluster with polished edges, a finely pierced scrolling gallery and fancy shape open backholing, flanked by raised shoulders which lead through to a solid D-shape shank. Marked platinum, numbered '2301', French, circa 1915.
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Reference Number 23720
Origin France
Ring size: Can be adjusted to any size.
Period Edwardian
TOTAL / RING Weight 3.1 grams
Gemstone Diamond, Old Mine, approximately 1ct 18 x Rubies, Calibre, approximately 0.72ct total 6 x Diamonds, Eight Cut, approximately 0.06ct total
The ring is in good condition.
This ring has been assessed by our in-house gemmologists:

The rubies are most likely to be from the old Burmese mines.
Calibre cut gemstones were worked into special shapes to fit into a specific area. Each gemstone would be fashioned so they sit right next to each other within a channel, with no metal in between visible from above. They would usually be held securely in place with a rubover or millegrain setting – a fine piece of secure metal bordering the stones. Calibré cut gems were usually faceted into small step-cuts or could also be polished to create tallow tops or miniature cabochons.

To produce this technique on an often minute scale required incredibly skillful and precise fashioning.
Berganza Ltd