Art Deco sapphire and diamond cluster ring by Cartier, French, circa 1920.


Price: £9,300

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Art Deco sapphire and diamond cluster ring by Cartier. Centrally set with a round old cut diamond in an open back grain setting with a weight of 0.15 carats, additionally set with twenty four round old cut diamonds in open back grain settings with a combined weight of 1.20 carats, and further enhanced by two square step cut natural unenhanced sapphires in open back rubover settings with a combined approximate weight of 0.10 carats. The total approximate diamond weight is 1.35 carats, to an octagonal openwork cluster with millegrain decoration to the edges and enclosing a diamond set quatrefoil motif to centre, with a pierced geometric gallery and fancy backholing, the raised openwork shoulders proceeding to a slender D-shape shank. Tested platinum, signed 'CARTIER' and numbered '151919', French, circa 1920.

Although subtle, the single quatrefoil to the centre of this octagonal cluster is distinctly Eastern in influence and is reflective of the 'style indien' which first appeared in Cartier's work in the early 1900s. It was during this period that Indian clients became an increasingly important source of commissions, with maharajahs and other wealthy individuals enlisting the firm to transform ancestral gems in accordance with the latest European fashions. Cartier also began to import large quantities of Indian gemstones and jewellery, which they usually remounted or occasionally sold on in its unaltered state, thereby creating a taste for Indian-style jewellery amongst their wider client base.

Ring size guide: L½

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