Antique & Vintage Rings

The stories behind our antique and vintage rings

Berganza houses one of Europe’s largest collections of Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco rings, including solitaires, eternity bands, and cluster designs of historic significance. Each example reflects the craftsmanship and stylistic developments of its period, curated with the discernment gained from over five decades of gemmological expertise.

The bold, geometric platinum jewels of the roaring ‘20s and 1930s epitomise the Art Deco movement, while the 1940s marked a return to yellow gold and the rise of statement cocktail rings. Jewels over 100 years old are classed as ‘antique’, encompassing Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian pieces, while those exceeding 1,500 years, such as Roman or Egyptian rings, are considered ‘ancient’.

Our perspective is rooted in a heritage of gem cutting and restoration. Founder Paul Daughters began as a lapidary in Hatton Garden before establishing the largest lapidary workshop in England, entrusted with commissions for renowned houses including Garrard, Asprey, and Kutchinsky. Today, Berganza continues this legacy with an in-house gemmological laboratory, research library, and published scholarship.

That these jewels endure, both intact and wearable, testifies to their exceptional craftsmanship. Whether acquired as an investment or as a future heirloom, our antique and vintage rings, antique men's rings, as well as vintage engagement rings, are presented with the expertise for which Berganza is recognised internationally.

FAQs

How To Clean Vintage Rings

Taking care of your vintage rings is key to keeping them in great condition. For pieces you wear daily, like old-fashioned vintage engagement rings, it's a good idea to have them professionally cleaned at least once a year. This not only removes stubborn dirt but also allows a jeweller to check for any signs of damage.

In between professional cleanings, you should clean your rings once a month. Simply fill a bowl with warm water and mild dish soap and gently scrub the ring with a soft-bristled toothbrush (paying special attention to the backs and sides of settings where dirt collects). Rinse the ring thoroughly and, once it's dry, polish it with a soft cloth.

Do all antique rings have hallmarks

No, not all antique rings have hallmarks. It's actually quite common to find antique rings without any visible markings, which often surprises collectors and buyers alike.

Georgian and Victorian jewellery was often not hallmarked, as compulsory hallmarking of all precious metals did not begin until the 1920s. Before 1973, jewellery was usually exempt from hallmarking (with the exception of wedding and mourning rings). This means many beautiful antique pieces from these earlier periods were never required to carry official marks.

How old does a ring need to be to be considered vintage?

Typically, vintage rings are 50 to 100 years old, while rings over 100 years old are classified as antique. Pieces over approximately 1,500 years old, such as ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian rings, are considered ancient jewellery.

How are antique rings valued?

The valuation of an antique ring is a nuanced art (much like the craftsmanship of the piece itself). It's not simply a matter of metal and stones, but of history, artistry, and rarity.

When we value antique rings, we look to the provenance, assess the gemstones, examine the condition and craftsmanship, and consider the metal and hallmarks to confirm their quality and origin. A piece that possesses a compelling history, exceptional stones, and master craftsmanship is a genuine treasure whose value appreciates over time.

Which gemstones are popular for vintage rings?

Vintage rings showcase a variety of gemstones, with antique diamond rings being a timeless favourite due to their durability and unique, hand-cut sparkle. These rings often feature diamonds from old mines, faceted by hand to give them a distinctive, romantic beauty. Other popular choices include antique sapphire rings, known for their calm blue hues, and antique ruby rings, which have long been associated with love. Antique emerald rings are another popular choice, first found in Egypt and famously worn by Cleopatra, with the finest coming from Colombia.