Rare Post-Medieval Diamond and Enamel Ring, circa 1550-1650.

Unearthed near Sheffield Green in Wealden, East Sussex, this is an area notable for its historic use by the noble and wealthy, having once comprised of an important ancient estate. As mentioned in the Domesday Book it had previously been owned by Dukes, Lords and Earls, and in 1538 King Henry VIII visited Sheffield Park, hosted by Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk. Taking into consideration the sumptuary laws of the time and the incredible cost that would have gone into the creation of such a ring, it is highly likely that this piece would have been owned by someone of note, but we can only wonder as to who this would have been. Whilst there is no way of determining whom this ring might have been made for, it is likely that it was crafted on the continent before making its way to England. This can be suggested due to the metal content, as in 1576 the English official gold standard as set by an Act of Parliament was 22 carat. This ring tests as a lower carat of gold, aligning closely with the French standard of 19.2 carat, known as the 'touch of Paris'.

This ring has been found in excellent condition, commensurate with its age. The enamel has likely discoloured from white to a light greenish blue, and only traces of it remain on the shoulders of the ring. It is likely that this ring was not worn over a large period of time due to its minimal wear, and the box bezel, in which the diamond is set, is made from sheet gold and remains in remarkably fine condition.

This piece is a rare survival from a time when diamond rings were uncommon, due to their cost and inaccessibility, with the only source of diamonds found in India. With so few made, it is no surprise that known diamond rings of this age and calibre have been acquired by museums, with few being discovered today. This ring, unearthed in such fine condition, has been disclaimed under the Treasure Act and is accompanied by paperwork from the Portable Antiques Scheme, documentation highly coveted amongst collectors and investors of early jewellery.

This ring represents an incredible opportunity to own a piece of significant historical value, the likes of which are rarely found on the open market.

An exceptional example of post-medieval craftsmanship, this ring exemplifies the fine jewellery of the era, and the increasing globalisation that aided its creation. The diamond very likely hailed from the old mines in India, where production peaked in the 1600s, and would thereafter have traversed the silk road to reach continental Europe to be cut. Whilst the setting restricts accurate measurements being taken of the stone, it is likely that this diamond weighs between 0.50-1.00 carats.

This ring would undoubtedly have been worn as an indicator of wealth and status, but it could also be suggested that this ring holds deeper symbolic meanings. The tri-enamel detailing to each side of the bezel could represent the holy trinity, and there are further religious connections in the colour of the enamel, once white, which is associated with purity and innocence. Furthermore, the vine scrolling detail to the shoulders, which was typical of the era, symbolises Christ as the True Vine, and rebirth, in Christian tradition.

Comparable examples can be found, mostly in museum settings. One such ring, now in the Museum of London (object ID: A14244) was part of the Cheapside Hoard which dates to the 17th century. This ring also features white enamel decoration around the band and is set with a table cut diamond. Another similar ring on display at the V&A (accession number: 935-1871) also showcases a similar square box bezel setting and enamel detailing to the bezel, as does another post-medieval diamond ring unearthed and declared under the Portable Antiquities Scheme ref: SUR-ED1CD5. These similarities suggest a homogenised approach to the design and creation of diamond rings between the late 16th and early 17th centuries.