BOOK AN APPOINTMENT
At Berganza, we are thrilled to present an exceptional post-medieval diamond and enamel ring dating from circa 1550 to 1650, discovered by a metal detectorist in Fletching near Sheffield Green, East Sussex, in 2023.
This piece is a rare survivor from a time when diamond rings were exclusive symbols of status, reserved for the elite amid significant social and economic change. Found near the historic Sheffield Park estate, this ring likely belonged to someone of considerable rank, making it not only a stunning jewel but also a fascinating link to the global trade networks and cultural ambitions of post-medieval England.
During the later Tudor and early Stuart eras, England embraced the Renaissance spirit influencing art, literature, and luxury goods. Jewellery became a canvas for innovation and self-expression, but strict sumptuary laws ensured that only those of the highest standing could own pieces as lavish as this.
At the time, diamonds were almost exclusively sourced from India, making them exceptionally rare and highly prized across Europe. The diamond in this ring likely journeyed along the Silk Road, passing through major trading hubs before reaching Europe, where it was expertly cut and set within a box bezel made from sheet gold, which remains in remarkably fine condition. The minimal wear on the ring suggests it was either carefully treasured or lost early on, adding to its allure as a precious relic from a privileged past.
The table cut was the first major faceting technique, developed in the 15th century, and represented a significant innovation in diamond cutting, allowing for a flat, polished surface that enhanced the stone’s brilliance and symmetry. This pioneering method laid the foundation for all subsequent diamond cuts, making this a remarkable example of early gem-cutting artistry.
The craftsmanship reveals thoughtful detail beyond its precious materials. Its bezel is decorated with tongue-shaped cells originally filled with pure white enamel, now turned blue-green with age. White was historically associated with innocence and purity. The tri-enamel motif may allude to the Holy Trinity, while the vine scrolling on the shoulders, typical of the era, carries Christian symbolism, referencing Christ as the True Vine and the promise of rebirth. While such motifs might hint at the wearer’s religious function, it is important to note such symbolic themes were widespread in jewellery reserved for the elite as both noble and clerical authority were closely linked to divine power.
Unearthed near Sheffield Green in East Sussex, the provenance of this piece is steeped in centuries of history. Once part of the historic Sheffield Park estate, the area mentioned in the Domesday Book was home to dukes and earls, and was famously visited by King Henry VIII in 1538. Ownership of such an extraordinary ring would have signified wealth, refined taste, and possibly royal favour or high clerical standing.
Scientific analysis suggests the ring was crafted on the European continent before arriving in England as its gold purity aligns with the French “touch of Paris” standard of 19.2 carats, rather than the English 22-carat standard established in 1576. This exquisite piece not only embodies the artistry and craftsmanship of the Renaissance but also offers a unique connection to the cultural exchanges that shaped its journey through history. It is a remarkable survivor whose table-cut diamond and distinguished provenance place it among the finest treasures of the era. Officially disclaimed under the Treasure Act, this ring comes with documentation from the Portable Antiquities Scheme.
Comparable rings are held in prestigious collections like the V&A and the Museum of London, underscoring its exceptional status. Notably, these museum examples also feature white enamel decoration, suggesting a homogenised approach to the design and creation of diamond rings between the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Its journey from Indian mines, through European craftsmanship, to its resting place in England, reflects the interconnected world of the Renaissance, while its design firmly anchors it within the spiritual and social fabric of post-medieval western Europe.
To hold or wear this exceptional early diamond ring is to connect with a chapter of history shaped by exploration, artistry, and faith and this museum-quality piece offers a rare chance to own a tangible link to the past.
