What is an Asscher cut ring?

The Asscher cut is a gemstone cut renowned for its step cut design and overall square shape. Most vintage Asscher cut rings feature a diamond. However, what makes an antique Asscher cut ring unique is its rounded corners, which create an almost octagonal shape. The facets of the cut draw the eye to the centre of the stone - it is a truly unique design. Invented by Joseph Asscher in 1908, it became popular during the 1920s. Antique Asscher cut rings are still highly sought today due to their expert craftsmanship and opulent look.

What is special about Asscher cut diamonds?

Asscher cut diamonds look a lot like emerald cut rings; however, they have a more square look, while emerald cut diamonds look more rectangular. Antique Asscher cut rings were patented until the Second World War, which makes the examples before this period extremely rare. This is because only the Asscher family could cut this diamond with the exact proportions and symmetry as outlined in the patent, with the perfect ratios. Later Asscher cuts do not necessarily conform to these exact proportions. Vintage Asscher cut rings produces a unique look due to their significant step facets and a high crown- they are truly some of the most stunning rings on the jewellery market.

Yes. Asscher cut diamonds only make up 2% of the diamond market. This makes antique Asscher cut rings extremely rare. Asscher cut diamonds are also incredibly rare because only one jewellery maker made them for decades. Joseph Asscher, who created the design, patented the design, which the company then lost during the Second World War. If you're looking for a truly unique and rare vintage Asscher cut ring, take a look at our selection of Art Deco engagement rings.

How to clean antique Asscher cut rings?

It's important to preserve a rare piece of jewellery, such as an antique Asscher cut ring. Cleaning your ring correctly is a great way to keep them looking beautiful. Make sure you rinse your ring. Soak your piece carefully in a bowl of warm water. Using a soft toothbrush, dislodge any dirt, and if it needs extra cleaning, use a mild washing-up liquid. Vintage Asscher cut rings may have intricate metalwork, so make sure to clean in all the crevices where substances such as hand gel, and moisturiser can build up. Here at Berganza, we offer complimentary annual cleaning for life with every purchase, so your prized antique Asscher cut ring can be taken care of properly.

How to determine the value of vintage Asscher cut rings?

Here at Berganza, there are many things we take into consideration when evaluating our antique Asscher cut rings, including the size of the diamond, and the era it was created. If there is any provenance attached to the piece, such as original receipts, or if it has been signed, this can increase the value of your vintage Asscher cut ring.

Vintage & Antique Asscher Cut Diamond Rings

The Asscher cut was created by legendary diamond cutter Joseph Asscher in 1902. As founder of the I.S. Asscher Diamond Company, he was known for his innovative and unique diamond designs.

At the time, he patented the design, which meant any other jewellery makers could not replicate it. Many of the antique Asscher cut rings we see today were created by the Asscher Diamond Company. This patent lasted until World War Two, and after that, we can see so many beautiful versions of the vintage Asscher cut ring from a myriad of different jewellery designers.

The antique Asscher cut ring is recognisable by several iconic features. They often look similar to emerald cut rings by the typical straight step cut facets that make up its design. However, Asscher cut rings are clip-cornered and take on a square formation. While emerald cut rings are elongated and rectangular, our vintage Asscher cut rings are instantly recognisable for their square shape. If you look straight down at an Asscher cut diamond, you can see an 'x' shape. This is created by the converging, equal-distance facets that centre on the bottom of the stone. The crown of the diamond is typically higher than other diamond shapes.

The wide cuts and perfect symmetry make antique Asscher cut rings highly sought after when it comes to vintage jewellery. The expertly-crafted cut of them makes the wearer feel like they're looking in a hall of mirrors, and they allow the viewer to have an unobstructed view of the beautiful interior of the stone. Vintage Asscher cut rings only use the highest quality stones, making them extremely valuable.

Although the antique Asscher cut ring was created in 1908, it wouldn't gain the massive popularity it is known for today until the 1920s. The Asscher cut design exploded into massive popularity during the Art Deco movement. After the First World War, the world exploded into an age of decadence and modernity. The world wanted to embrace the new age and shift away from the Edwardian era's traditions. The design of the time used modern geometric shapes and symmetry to reflect this movement in everything from architecture to fashion. However, jewellery design was arguably the most influenced by the Art Deco movement. The clean, sophisticated lines of the Asscher cut diamond fit in perfectly with the fashions of the 1920s, and many art deco engagement rings feature the Asscher cut diamond. Antique Asscher cut engagement rings from the period are still incredibly popular today, as much as they were with the fashionable culture of the 1920s. Nowadays, vintage Asscher cut rings have gained a massive following due to their clean lines and chic look. They are considered truly elegant and extraordinary jewellery pieces, and are one of the most timeless and sought after cuts available on the diamond market today.

Our collection of antique Asscher cut rings truly reflects how eternally stylish the Asscher cut diamond is, in an array of styles from different eras. If any of our stunning vintage Asscher cut rings catch your eye, you can contact one of our specialists online, or visit us in-store at the heart of Hatton Garden's jewellery quarter.