Love and Lockets

Article from Berganza


Victorian cameo locket berganza hatton garden
Victorian cameo locket, French, circa 1880.
Ref: 24909

Saturday 10th July 2010

Jewels containing concealed compartments have been popular for centuries, most commonly functioning as tokens of love.  Prior to the nineteenth century various forms of jewellery hid locks of hair, portrait miniatures and other mementos.  However, in the mid to late nineteenth century the pendant locket came into vogue. 

Influenced by a number of factors, including the invention of photography, which made miniature images more accessible to the greater public, the Romantic movement, sentimental objects were promoted, and new technology allowed for the increased production of jewellery. It was in this context that lockets became popular. Queen Victoria—perhaps the greatest trend-setter of her day—often wore lockets.  One of her most coveted jewels was a charm bracelet set with nine enamelled heart-shaped lockets, each one containing a lock of hair of the royal children, first given to her by Prince Albert in 1846, with the lockets added as the children were born (now in the Royal Collection).  She also gave lockets as presents, and they soon became the gift of choice for sentimental occasions, such as from a bride to her bridesmaids, and to mark other occasions such as birthdays, in addition to being a present exchanged between lovers. 

Due to their romantic associations, lockets were often decorated with symbols of love, such as flowers (each variety with its own romantic symbolism), birds, ribbons (symbolising the bonds of love), and serpents (eternal love), or were in a romantic shape, such as a heart, as seen in Victoria’s bracelet.  Lockets were typically worn either on a chain or ribbon around the neck, or on a bracelet, as a charm, again as already exemplified.  A testament to their sentimental allure, lockets have remained popular throughout the twentieth century up to the present day.

REFERENCES

Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe, Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria:  A Mirror to the World, London:  The British Museum Press, 2010.

 

 antique clover diamond gold locket berganza hatton garden
Edwardian trefoil clover locket, English, circa 1905.
Ref: 23415
Antique agate locket hatton garden
Antique agate locket, French, circa 1850.
Ref: 22605
Antique gold locket chain berganza hatton garden
Victorian gold locket and chain, English, circa 1860.
Ref: 22581
front view Antique diamond set 'tennis' locket, circa 1905.
Antique diamond set 'tennis' locket, circa 1905.
Ref: 13896
Antique three picture gold locket berganza hatton garden
Victorian three picture round gold locket, French, circa 1900.
Ref: 14734
antique ruby emerald brooch berganza hatton garden
Georgian ruby and emerald mandolin brooch/pendant locket, circa 1830.
Ref: 14898
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