Crossover engagement rings

Article from Berganza

Art Nouveau sapphire diamond crossover ring berganza hatton garden
Art Nouveau sapphire and diamond crossover ring, circa 1900.
Ref: 16784

This style of ring first became popular in the Edwardian and Belle Époque period. Jewellery at this time was typically extremely elegant. The introduction of platinum into jewellery at the turn of the century allowed craftsmen to work with more apparent delicacy and softness. Concurrently, the Art Nouveau movement promoted flowing lines and soft curves, taking inspiration from nature. The resulting designs made their way directly into the jewellery of the period.

Typically, a cross-over ring is composed of two juxtaposed central stones, flanked by gently curved, softly scrolling shoulders. Often the stones would be a diamond set next to a coloured stone, for example, a ruby, emerald or sapphire. Further diamonds could also be set to the shoulders, or around the main stones. A ring could have more than two central stones, but would usually have stylistic curving, or ‘crossover' shoulders.

The idea of two central stones is especially romantic for an engagement ring. Sometimes referred to as a ‘toi et moi' ring, this style combines the symbolism of both stones within one.  For example, a diamond can signify strength, purity and beauty, alongside a ruby symbolising eternal romantic love. It also represents the joining of two - a romantic idea for an engagement piece. The popularity of this style continued throughout the century across the different jewellery periods. In 1910, the famed American jeweller Seaman Schepps gave his wife a crossover ring marking their engagement, of an opal and a diamond. In 1953, John F. Kennedy gave an emerald and diamond crossover ring by Van Cleef & Arpels to Jacqueline Onassis.

At Berganza, our crossover engagement rings are all handmade and unique. We have some signed examples by famous jewellers such as Oscar Heyman Brothers and Tiffany & Co, spanning across the twentieth century. Each piece is set with natural, unenhanced stones and would make a beautiful antique or vintage engagement ring.

Tiffany & Co emerald diamond crossover ring hatton garden
Tiffany & Co. Colombian emerald and diamond crossover ring, American, circa 1930.
Ref: 27837
Burmese ruby and diamond three stone ring berganza hatton garden
Burmese ruby and diamond three stone cross over ring, circa 1940.
Ref: 20441
Pearl and diamond crossover ring, circa 1900. Hatton Garden
Pearl and diamond crossover ring, circa 1900.
Ref: 28228
Colombian Emerald and Diamond Crossover Ring hatton garden
Colombian Emerald and Diamond Crossover Ring, Circa 1915.
Ref: 27359
Edwardian diamond crossover ring berganza hatton garden
Edwardian diamond crossover ring, circa 1915.
Ref: 26592
Two stone diamond crossover ring Boucheron berganza hatton garden
Boucheron two stone diamond crossover ring, French, circa 1980.
Ref: 23919
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Updated 19/05/2024 at 1:34PM

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