Bejewelled Bereavement: Mourning Jewellery

Article from Berganza


front view Antique mourning ring gold berganza hatton garden
Georgian enameled mourning ring, English, circa 1827.
Ref: 22350

Monday 10th May 2010

Mourning jewellery is of two general types, either a commemorative piece which marks the death of an individual, or one which denotes that the wearer is observing a period of formal bereavement.  The former variety, also sometimes known as memorial jewellery, predates the latter, and became popular in the mid-seventeenth century. Memorial jewels of this period often incorporate an inscription relating to the deceased, typically a small poem, such as ‘Not lost but gone before’, or ‘Requiescat In Pace’ (Rest in Peace).  In terms of decoration, skulls were a popular motif, which also featured in non-memorial jewellery, and were meant to remind the wearer of the brevity of life. The other major decorative device during this period was hair belonging to the deceased, usually braided, either centrally set and covered by a transparent crystal, or concealed beneath the bezel.

Some of these stylistic devices carried into the eighteenth century, especially the decorative use of hair. However, the somewhat grim skeleton imagery was replaced by more subtle symbolic motifs befitting of the presiding neoclassical taste.  This included funerary urns, weeping willow trees, harps, sheaves of wheat and broken columns.  Black and other dark shades of enamel such as deep blue were also used in memorial jewellery of this century, as well as dark stones, particularly amethysts. Replacing poems, inscriptions were typically an abbrevation of the name, date of death and age at death of the deceased, however some were more elaborate.

Both the sentimentalism brought on by the Romantic movement in the first half of the nineteenth century and the extended mourning of Queen Victoria for her husband Albert, Price Consort, made the nineteenth century the pinnacle of the mourning jewellery fashion. Black enamel and hair continued to be the standard decorative devices, though the introduction of the concept of the ‘Language of Flowers’ brought about the use of symbolic floral decoration, the most popular of which was the forget-me-not, a blue, five-petaled flower which signified remembrance.

Mourning jewellery of a more general form was created to coordinate with the all-black mourning dress of this era, which reached the height of its employ during the aforementioned bereavement of Queen Victoria. Jet, a black fossilized wood found near the town of Whitby in Yorkshire, was one of the few acceptable mourning jewellery materials, the other being black enamelled gold. Mourning jewellery swiftly fell from fashion in the twentieth century, perhaps due to the exhaustive, extraordinarily long yet touching observance period of Victoria for Albert, which lasted from his death in 1861 until her own in 1901.

REFERENCES

Clare Phillips, Jewels & Jewellery, London:  V&A Publications, 2000.

Diana Scarisbrick, Rings:  Jewelry of Love, Power and Loyalty, London:  Thames and Hudson, 2007.

Antique Rose Diamond Pearl Mourning Ring berganza hatton garden
Antique Rose Diamond and Pearl Mourning Ring, circa 1770.
Ref: 14281
memorial garnet enamel ring berganza hatton garden
Georgian crystal, garnet and enamel memorial ring, English, circa 1775.
Ref: 15036
 Antique old mine diamond and black enamel memorial ring, circa 1862 berganza hatton garden
Antique old mine diamond and black enamel memorial ring, circa 1862.
Ref: 13467
front view Gold and enamel memorial pendant
Gold and enamel memorial pendant, circa 1830.
Ref: 24661
front view Antique diamond and pearl 'urn' memorial ring, circa 1780.
Antique diamond and pearl 'urn' memorial ring, circa 1780.
Ref: 14282
diamond spinel ring berganza hatton garden
Antique enamel and diamond set harp memorial ring, circa 1895.
Ref: 13776
Amethyst memorial ring for the Right Honourable George Grenville
Amethyst memorial ring for the Right Honourable George Grenville (British Prime Minister, 1763-1765)
Ref: 12510
antique diamond enamel ring berganza hatton garden
Georgian diamond and enamel memorial ring, circa 1790.
Ref: 14821
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