In many ways, one of the most distinguishing and alluring features of an antique ring is its hand-made nature. This unique quality can often be especially apparent in pieces from the 1920’s, where craftsmen created ornate designs in platinum. At Berganza we have examples showcasing the very best of workmanship from this fanciful period.
The introduction of platinum into jewellery just after 1900 changed the appearance of rings from yellow gold Victorian pieces to lighter, more delicate designs. The strength and malleability of platinum meant settings did not have to be bulky; they could be worked into fine and intricate mounts. In the 1920’s, the platinum look was preferred and rings would be worked fully in this naturally white metal, leaving yellow gold behind for the most part. Platinum allowed diamonds to be shown off to their best effect, and also created a wonderful canvas for ornate metalwork.
This brilliant pairing of diamonds and platinum worked beautifully with ornate detailing, and subsequently, diamond cluster rings of this period became a feature of early Art Deco jewellery. Stylistically, these pieces replaced the Edwardian garland style motifs of bows and ribbons, by embracing Asian and Egyptian influences, geometry and straight lines, see reference 20705 and 19846. Floral motifs were still popular but tended to be less scalloped and overt, instead intricate petals would be worked into metal along with decorative scrolls, see reference 21193 and 19515.
These ornate diamond cluster rings vary in shape, and can be worn as engagement or occasional rings. Some work the length of the finger, see references 20729, 17822 and 18227, others are more horizontal, see 17806 and 17352, and other examples encompass both, see 19662, 19919 and 15589. All shapes and styles display an exquisite hand-made quality found in original rings from this time.
The individuality of these ornate cluster rings is a testament to the skill of the craftsmen that produced jewellery in the 1920’s; each piece is truly a work of art. Find your unique ornate cluster in our collection at Berganza.