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Cartierdiamondsolitaire ring. Set to centre with an octagonal emerald-cut diamond, H colour, VS2 clarity in an open backclaw setting with an approximate weight of 2.64 carats, to an impressive solitaire featuring corner claws, polished edges and open backholing, the raised trumpeting shoulders with tri-colour grooved design, tapering to a solid D-shapeshank. Marked 18 carat yellow, white and rose gold, signed 'Mld Cartier London' for Cartier, numbered 'HLS01255', English, circa 1980, accompanied by Gemological Institute of America (GIA) report #2205880145.
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Artists and craftsman have for many centuries signed their masterpieces with initials, symbols or other recognisable signatures or markings. This tradition has not been overlooked when it comes to master jewellers who have signed their work so that their skills and innovative designs would forever be identified as their creations.
Perhaps the earliest type of signature on jewellery is the maker’s mark which was primarily used so that the maker or company responsible for marking the gold could be identified. Over the centuries the maker’s mark became more mainstream and functioned as a trademark.
A maker’s mark was originally a stamp which included either a pictogram or the initials of the company concealed on the inside or outside of the ring’s band. Signatures are usually a little more noticeable with either the full name of the jeweller or a widely recognisable abbreviated version of the jewellery firm.
Having an item which has been signed by a specific maker can increase the rarity and prestige of the jewellery. This is particularly true of items which bear the signatures of Fabergé, Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boivin, Yard, Black, Star and Frost, J.E. Caldwell, Mauboussin, Boucheron, Seaman Schepps and Wiese to name a few.
Connoisseurs, collectors and jewellery lovers will all behold a jewellery masterpiece and search for a glimpse of the coveted signature.