Ring size guide: M
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Description
Carved sapphire and diamond ring by J. E. Caldwell, American, circa 1925. A platinum ring set with one central carved leaf-form sapphire in a claw setting with an approximate weight of 10.00 carats, flanked on one side with two rectangular baguette cut diamonds in millegraincollet settings with an approximate total weight of 0.12 carats, the remainder of the asymmetrical bezel and shoulders set with twenty one round old cut diamonds in millegrain collet settings with an approximate total weight of 0.50 carats, above an ornate openwork scrolled gallery, on a square shank, with an approximate combined diamond weight of 0.62 carats, and marked ‘J.E.C.&Co./4265’.
Ref: 17789
Carved sapphire and diamond ring by J E Caldwell, American, circa 1925.
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BAGUETTE Small gems cut in the form of narrow rectangles or tapered trapezoids.
CARAT
In reference to gemstones, a unit of weight, abbreviated 'ct'. 1 carat is equal to 0.2 grams.
In reference to gold, a unit of purity or fineness of gold and gold alloy, expressed as a number out of 24 parts by weight, e.g. '24 carat' signifies pure gold, '18 carat' 18/24th gold in the alloy, et cetera. Also abbreviated as 'ct'.
Originally derived from the carob seed, called quirat in Arabic, a seed of naturally uniform weight.
GALLERY On a ring, the area below the setting, usually described as pierced, carved, swagged, scrolled, ornate etc.
MILLEGRAIN A type of setting for stones in which tiny beads of the metal are raised to grip the girdle and so enhance the sparkling effect.
OLD CUT Refers to a stone cut with a rounded outline and large culet, predominantly prior to 1910. This style was meant to maximise light return in low light conditions, namely candlelight.
PLATINUM Platinum is the hardest precious metal. It is lighter, harder and stronger than gold or silver which it superseded as a setting for diamonds making finer intricate settings possible. Platinum was first hallmarked in the UK in 1975.
SAPPHIRE Sapphire is said to be the gemstone of harmony, friendship and loyalty. Part of the corundum family, which also includes ruby, sapphire comes from the Persian "Saffir", or the Greek "Sapphiros". Blue is the best-known colour but it can be found in all colours of the spectrum. After diamond it is the hardest gemstone.
GALLERY The vertical part of a ring which supports the central settings of the bezel, which is often pierced or engraved.
SHANK The part of the ring that encircles the finger, not including the top piece or head.
COLLET Very early method of setting gemstones. A collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes right the way around the stone.
J.E. CALDWELL
James Emmett Caldwell established the jewellery company bearing his name in 1839 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.Having trained as a silversmith in New York, Caldwell supplied Philadelphia’s elite with silver, jewellery and objets d’art.By the turn of the century, the company became known for their gem-set Art Nouveau jewels, and to this day remain one of the premier American jewellers who worked in this mode.In 1916 the company moved locations to Chestnut Street, Philadelphia’s most fashionable street.In the 1920s the firm shifted gears to produce exceptional pieces in the Art Deco style.
DIAMOND
Diamonds have been prized for their unique physical attributes for millennia. Formed of crystallized carbon, they are the hardest substance on earth. It is unsurprising then that diamonds have long been the symbol of strength, invincibility and eternal love.
The first significant source of diamonds was India, more specifically a region known as Golconda. These diamonds are particularly prized for their lack of impurities, resulting in colourless diamonds of supreme clarity and brilliance. Many of the world's most famous were found in the Golconda mines, including the Hope diamond and the Koh-i-noor.
From India diamonds were carried along the Silk Routes of Central Asia, through Turkey and thence on to Europe. It was during this time that Venice became a major diamond trading centre, with Bruges and, later, Antwerp at the northern end of the route. India remained the primary source of diamonds until the eighteenth century, by which time the mines there had been largely depleted. Rather fortuitously, around the same time diamonds were discovered in Brazil. This source, however, was short-lived, and ran out in the mid-nineteenth century.
But yet again, a new source immerged to replace it, this time one of much more significant supply. In 1866 a child in South Africa found an unusual looking stone, which turned out to be a twenty one carat rough diamond, now known as the ‘Eureka' diamond. Shortly thereafter, in 1869, the discovery of an 83.5 carat diamond-the ‘Star of South Africa'-confirmed the significance of the deposits.
The now famous DeBeers Company, founded by Englishman Cecil Rhodes, controlled all of the diamond deposits in South Africa from the time of its establishment in 1888. And so it came to pass that London became the world's rough diamond trading centre, as all stones passed through his London offices, while cutting carried on in Antwerp, and later Tel Aviv and New York. Today South Africa remains a major source of world diamonds, joined in the twentieth century by Canada, Australia and Russia, which helped to break down the DeBeers monopoly.
Though most people think of diamonds as colourless, diamonds can form in most any colour of the rainbow, including black.
PLATINUM A metallic element prized for its rarity, whiteness, high tensile strength and insusceptibility to corrosion. It first became widely used in jewellery in the late nineteenth century, when methods were found to make it more easily workable. It features heavily in the delicate Edwardian jewellery of the first decades of the twentieth century.
BEZEL The central section of a ring upon which the gemstones or other main ornaments are placed.
CLAW A claw setting is one in which the gemstone is secured via a number of metal 'claws' above the girdle of the stone, typically no less than four. This method was an innovation of the late nineteenth century, and most famously featured in the 'Tiffany setting' invented by the famed American jeweller Tiffany & Co in the 1880s. Prior to this gemstones were surrounded by a metal collet (or strip of metal formed around the girdle) which had the disadvantage of blocking light from passing through the gemstone.
