Description
Ruby and diamond ring by
Lacloche Frères, French, circa 1905. A yellow gold and
platinum ring with vertical
marquise shaped bezel composed of a central flower, the centre of the florette set with one round
old cut ruby in a gold rubover
collet setting with an approximate weight of 0.03 carats, the remainder of the flower set with ten
cushion shaped
old mine diamonds in platinum topped gold bead settings, on a ground of thirty two tapered
step cut unheated Burmese
rubies with an approximate total weight of 3.00 carats, all encircled by a single row of forty six cushion shaped old mine diamonds in platinum topped gold
millegrain bead settings, all fifty six cushion shaped diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, flanked by split crossover scrolled shoulders set with twenty round
rose cut diamonds in platinum topped gold bead settings with an approximate total weight of 0.20 carats, on a gold tapered ridged square
shank, with an approximate combined ruby weight of 3.03 carats, an approximate combined diamond weight of 1.70 carats, signed ‘LACLOCHE FRES PARIS’, and with a French maker’s mark.
The jewellery firm of Lacloche Frères was founded in 1875 in Madrid, Spain by a family of four brothers: Fernand, Jacques, Jules and Leopold Lacloche. In 1892 the firm moved to Paris, taking up a shop on the Avenue de l’Opera, where they competed among the top jewellers, including
Cartier,
Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels. In these early years in Paris Lacloche produced jewellery in the reigning Belle Époque style, of which this ring is a rare and exceptional example. The ring exhibits all the hallmarks of this high style, including delicate floral motif, openwork scrolls and elongated bezel, all executed in platinum topped yellow gold and a two-tone gemstone combination; the latter element was most often comprised of diamonds with one other precious coloured gem, typically ruby,
sapphire or
emerald. Pieces made by the firm are recognizable for the intricacy of craftsmanship, this being no exception, as exemplified by the fine
pavé setting of the calibré-cut rubies, which was a new technique introduced around this time. Few early Lacloche pieces are seen today, and fewer still rings, making this, in conjunction with the outstanding quality of the work, a collector’s item. It is truly an example of the crème de la crème of French Belle Époque jewellery.
Ref: 16660
Ruby and diamond ring by Lacloche Frères, French, circa 1905.
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OR
CUSHION
A square or rectangular stone with rounded corners and deep crown facets, found almost exclusively in antique jewellery.
MARQUISE
Stone or item of jewellery that is essentially oval but has pointed ends.
MILLEGRAIN
A type of setting for stones in which tiny beads of the metal are raised to grip the girdle and so enhance the sparkling effect.
OLD CUT
Refers to a stone cut with a rounded outline and large culet, predominantly prior to 1910. This style was meant to maximise light return in low light conditions, namely candlelight.
PAVÉ
Surface of piece is covered with stones held in position by bead-setting. The article will look like it has been paved with stones.
PLATINUM
Platinum is the hardest precious metal. It is lighter, harder and stronger than gold or silver which it superseded as a setting for diamonds making finer intricate settings possible. Platinum was first hallmarked in the UK in 1975.
SAPPHIRE
Sapphire is said to be the gemstone of harmony, friendship and loyalty. Part of the corundum family, which also includes ruby, sapphire comes from the Persian "Saffir", or the Greek "Sapphiros". Blue is the best-known colour but it can be found in all colours of the spectrum. After diamond it is the hardest gemstone.
ROSE CUT
A method of cutting stones dating from the mid-seventeenth century. The stone has a flat base and rises to a faceted pointed top. The diamond is cut with 24 triangular facets in the shape of a hemisphere. In all seven principal variations of the rose cut the facets are hexagonally arranged and the base of the stone is flat.
RUBY
One of the most valuable gemstones on earth, ruby is regarded as the stone of passionate love. From the corundum family, the red variety being ruby and the blue, sapphire. With the exception of the diamond, corundum is the hardest of the gemstones on the Mohs scale scoring a 9. Ruby is derived from the Latin "Ruber" meaning red. It has long symbolised eternal devotion and romantic love.
STEP CUT
Horizontal, layered facets, as in emerald cut, also called trap-cut.
Old MineThe term 'old mine' refers to gemstones deriving from historical, often ancient, mining sources.
With regards to diamonds, for example, this would indicate that the stones were mined in India or Brazil, the two primarily mining locales prior to the discovery of diamonds in South Africa in the late nineteenth century. India in particular is renowned for diamonds mined in the central area of the subcontinent surrounding the city of Golconda, and are known for their particularly high quality in terms of size, colour and clarity. The Hope diamond and the Koh-i-Noor, perhaps the two most famous diamonds of all time, are Golconda diamonds. To add to the rarity of such stones, these mines have been largely exhausted.
In the case of emeralds, stones classified as old mine would be from Egypt, Austria, Gandahara (the ancient central Asian kingdom) or, primarily, Colombia. The highest quality old mine emerald material derives from this last source, which had been mined by pre-Colombian tribes for approximately one thousand years. It was not until the Spanish presence in the New World in the early sixteenth century, however, that these stones graced the royal courts of Europe, the Middle East, and, primarily, India.
Boucheron
The House of Boucheron was founded by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858, with his first salon at the Palais Royal. The firm quickly became one of the premier French jewellers and gained deserved international acclaim, having exhibited at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial, the 1889 and 1900 Paris Expositions Universelles, the 1893 World’s Colombian Exposition in Chicago, and the 1925 Exposition des Art Décoratifs in Paris. Moving to the current headquarters at 26 Place Vendome in Paris in 1893, Boucheron has been and continues to be patronised by numerous royals and stars of stage and screen, including among others, Queen Elizabeth, Tsar Nicholas II, Sarah Bernhardt, Greta Garbo, Rita Hayworth, Nicole Kidman and Cameron Diaz.
Cartier Maison Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier when he took over the workshop of his master. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the company, but it was Alfred's sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the world-wide brand name of Cartier.
Louis assumed responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company's most celebrated designs, such as the mystery clocks, fashionable wristwatches and exotic Orientalist Art Deco designs, including the colourful "Tutti Frutti" jewels. Cartier also created the famous Panthère brooch of the 1940s for Wallis Simpson. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current address at New Bond Street. Pierre Cartier established the New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant which Cartier bought in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million.
With a seemingly endless list of elite clientele, from kings to maharajas to Hollywood ‘royalty’, Cartier has since become synonymous with glamour and prestige.
Cartier has since become synonymous with glamour and prestige.
Rubies
From the Corundum family, the red variety being ruby and the blue, sapphire. With the exception of the diamond, corundum is the hardest of the gemstones on the Mohs scale scoring a 9. Ruby is derived from the Latin "Ruber" meaning red. It has long symbolised eternal devotion and romantic love.
Shank
The part of the ring that encircles the finger, not including the top piece or head.
Collet
Very early method of setting gemstones. A collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes right the way around the stone.
EMERALD
Emeralds are said to be the gemstone of good fortune, healing and fertilty according to the various cultures which have revered them over the centuries. They are a variety of the beryl family, coloured green by trace amounts of chromium and sometimes vanadium, a family which also includes aquamarine. Beryl scores 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale of hardness. The word "emerald" comes from the Greek 'smaragdos' meaning green stone.
LACLOCHE FRERES The jewellery firm of Lacloche Frères was founded in 1875 in Madrid, Spain by a family of four brothers: Fernand, Jacques, Jules and Leopold Lacloche. In 1892 the firm moved to Paris, where they competed among the top jewellers, including Cartier, Mauboussin, and Van Cleef and Arpels. In the 1920s they became particularly known for their Art Deco nécessaires (jewelled vanity cases, powder compacts, lipstick holders, and various smoking accessories).
