Description
Sapphire and diamond cluster ring by
Black Starr & Frost, circa 1920. Ornate pierced out cluster ring set to centre with an oval
old cut sapphire weighing approximately 1.10
ct in a
millegrained rub-over setting. Sixteen round old cut diamonds set to mount and shoulders with an approximate combined weight of 0.50ct. The whole in
platinum, with a swagged and carved
gallery.
Ref: 14343
Sapphire and diamond cluster ring by Black Starr & Frost, circa 1920.
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Interest
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OR
GALLERY
On a ring, the area below the setting, usually described as pierced, carved, swagged, scrolled, ornate etc.
MILLEGRAIN
A type of setting for stones in which tiny beads of the metal are raised to grip the girdle and so enhance the sparkling effect.
OLD CUT DIAMOND
Refers to a stone cut with a circular shape and large culet. These stones were cut to maximise light return in low light conditions predominantly prior to 1910. Also called an old European cut.
PLATINUM
Platinum is the hardest precious metal. It is lighter, harder and stronger than gold or silver which it superseded as a setting for diamonds making finer intricate settings possible. Platinum was first hallmarked in the UK in 1975.
SAPPHIRE
Sapphire is said to be the gemstone of harmony, friendship and loyalty. Part of the corundum family, which also includes ruby, sapphire comes from the Persian "Saffir", or the Greek "Sapphiros". Blue is the best-known colour but it can be found in all colours of the spectrum. After diamond it is the hardest gemstone.
BLACK STARR & FROST Founded in 1801 in Savannah, Georgia, the firm know today as Black, Starr & Frost was first called Marquand & Paulding. In 1810 Isaac Marquand moved to New York, establishing a premise on Broadway in lower Manhattan, and consolidating his with a number of other firms. Under this name the company exhibited in the 1851 London Crystal Palace Exhibition, one of the few American jewellery firms in attendance. In 1860 the company changed its name to Ball Black & Company, again marking a new partnership. By this time the company was established as one of the premier American jewellers, alongside Tiffany and Gorham.
In 1876 Cortlandt Starr and Aaron V. Front joined the firm, changing the name to Black Starr & Frost, and moved the shop to 251 Fifth Avenue. In the same year they exhibited at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia to great acclaim. One final merger, in 1929 the company joined with Gorham & Co, becoming Black, Starr & Frost-Gorham Inc. In 1939 the firm was one of five American jewellers invited to exhibit at New York’s World’s Fair. Through its various incarnations, it is known today as one of the oldest and most prestigious American jewellery firms, which produced the highest quality in terms of material, craftsmanship and design.
CTIn reference to gemstones, an abbreviation of carat, a unit of weight. One carat is equal to 0.20 grams.
In reference to gold, also an abbreviation of carat, a unit of purity or fineness of gold and gold alloy, expressed as a number out of 24 parts by weight, e.g. '24 carat' signifies pure gold, '18 carat' 18/24th gold in the alloy, et cetera.
Originally derived from the carob seed, called quirat in Arabic, a seed of naturally uniform weight.
