Diamond and Demantoid Cross Over Ring, Russian circa 1880.
Ref: 13830
Diamond and
demantoid cross over ring, Russian circa 1880.
Cushion shaped old cut demantoid
garnet in a
millegrained setting with an approximate weight of 0.50
ct, set diagonally opposite a round
old cut diamond with an approximate weight of 0.40ct. Set to the outside of two interlocking 'V' shapes, with eighteen round old cut diamonds in total, having a combined weight of 0.50ct. Set in silver to a yellow gold
shank.
Price £3,900
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CUSHION
A square or rectangular stone with rounded corners and deep crown facets, found almost exclusively in antique jewellery.
MILLEGRAIN
A type of setting for stones in which tiny beads of the metal are raised to grip the girdle and so enhance the sparkling effect.
OLD CUT DIAMOND
Refers to a stone cut with a circular shape and large CULET. These stones were cut to maximise light return in low light conditions predominantly prior to 1910. Also called an Old European Cut.
Diamond
Diamond is the hardest of all gemstones (and the hardest naturally occuring mineral on earth)with a score of 10 on the Mohs scale. The word comes from the Greek word 'Adamas' meaning invincible. The diamond has been a highly prized gemstone for the last three thousand years.
Shank
The part of the ring that encircles the finger, not including the top piece or head.
DEMANTOID
The demantoid is one of the most dispersive gemstones that exist, yet until recently it was little known except among collectors and stone lovers. It is a green garnet, or rather the star of the green garnets. Not without reason does it bear a name which means 'diamond-like'. The name comes from the Dutch and makes reference to the outstanding quality of this gem, its incomparable brilliance and fire.
The demantoid belongs to the garnet family, and is actually a variety of the garnet mineral andradite. But it is more than that: it is the most expensive kind of garnet and one of the most precious of all gemstones. It is highly prized because of its rarity, coupled with an intense luminosity. Demantoid has an extremely high refractive index 1.880 to 1.889. Its high dispersion is also remarkable, its ability to split the light which comes in through the facets and break it down into all the spectral colours. The demantoid surpasses even diamond in its dispersive properties.
This stone comes in many shades of green, from a slightly yellowish green to a brownish green with a golden glow. Particularly precious is a deep emerald green, though this only occurs very rarely indeed. It is not only fine and unusual, but the specimens are also mostly small, large ones being extremely rare. Once cut, only a few stones weigh more than two carats, and most of them hardly exceed one. And even if you come across one set in a piece of jewellery, it is always likely to be a small stone.
After its discovery in 1868 in Russia's Ural mountains, the demantoid rapidly proceeded to become a much desired gemstone. It found fame among the finest jeweller's workshops in Paris, New York and St. Petersburg. First and foremost, Russia's star jeweller Carl Fabergé adored it for its tremendous brilliance and loved to incorporate it in his precious objects.
The demantoid garnet has long been prized for its rarity and brilliance, it remains today one of the most unusual stones available in jewellery in the world.
CTIn reference to gemstones, an abbreviation of carat, a unit of weight. One carat is equal to 0.20 grams.
In reference to gold, also an abbreviation of carat, a unit of purity or fineness of gold and gold alloy, expressed as a number out of 24 parts by weight, e.g. '24 carat' signifies pure gold, '18 carat' 18/24th gold in the alloy, et cetera.
Originally derived from the carob seed, called quirat in Arabic, a seed of naturally uniform weight.
GARNET
A garnet is a species of gemstone that appears in a variety of colours, though the most common and most widely recognized is a deep red hue. Garnets are categorized into over ten varieties, and come in various shades of green, purple, red, orange and yellow. Dark, warm hued red garnets of the pyrope variety were particularly popular in eighteenth and nineteenth century jewellery. It is a relatively durable gemstone, and rates a 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness. The name derives from the Latin word 'granum', meaning grainy.
