Description
Diamond and
onyx Bear brooch by
Cartier London, numbered No 4554. Ornately carved 18
ct yellow gold bear with onyx paws and diamond set eyes. Mounted and set in 18ct yellow gold, circa 1993.
Ref: 13224
Bear brooch set with diamonds and onyx by Cartier London No 4554
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Cartier Maison Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier when he took over the workshop of his master. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the company, but it was Alfred's sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the world-wide brand name of Cartier.
Louis assumed responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company's most celebrated designs, such as the mystery clocks, fashionable wristwatches and exotic Orientalist Art Deco designs, including the colourful "Tutti Frutti" jewels. Cartier also created the famous Panthère brooch of the 1940s for Wallis Simpson. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current address at New Bond Street. Pierre Cartier established the New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant which Cartier bought in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million.
With a seemingly endless list of elite clientele, from kings to maharajas to Hollywood ‘royalty’, Cartier has since become synonymous with glamour and prestige.
Cartier has since become synonymous with glamour and prestige.
CTIn reference to gemstones, an abbreviation of carat, a unit of weight. One carat is equal to 0.20 grams.
In reference to gold, also an abbreviation of carat, a unit of purity or fineness of gold and gold alloy, expressed as a number out of 24 parts by weight, e.g. '24 carat' signifies pure gold, '18 carat' 18/24th gold in the alloy, et cetera.
Originally derived from the carob seed, called quirat in Arabic, a seed of naturally uniform weight.
CHALCEDONY Chalcedony is a form of quartz with a very special structure, known in gemmological circles as cryptocrystalline—meaning the crystal structure is incredibly small and dense, rendering it one of the smoothest gemstones. This allows for the material to be crisply carved, which makes it perfect for the jeweller type for which it is best known—cameos and intaglios.
Chalcedony also comes in a myriad of colours and patterns, and is often better known by these sub-types. One is onyx, a black form of chalcedony, often with white banding. Another is agate, which has fine layers of colour, and was thought by ancient peoples to quench thirst, and protect against fever. One of the most popular is sardonyx, characterized by wider, straight banding, which makes it perfect for use in cameo carving. Bloodstone is deep green colour with red splashes. Carnelian is the name for the reddish orange variety, while jasper is the name of chalcedony of any other colour or pattern.
