Cartier cat brooch, circa 1960.

Coral is classified as an organic gemstone, separate from the larger mineral category, meaning that it is derived from animal or plant life, a group which also includes pearls and amber.  More specifically coral is a ‘calcareous concretion’, and is in actuality the skeleton of the sea animal coral, composed of calcium carbonate.  There are many types of corals, but the varieties used in jewellery typically form in warm salt water including the Mediterranean Sea, the Red Sea, and the waters of Asia, Australia and the Caribbean.

Coral has long been associated with protective powers, and particularly in Mediterranean cultures was believe to ward off the evil eye.  For this reason it was often used in children’s jewellery as well as toys, such as rattles and teething devices.   It was also thought to banish tension and fear, and to promote positive social interactions.  Still today in Italy it is common to see ‘cornicello’ pendants made of polished segments of red coral. 

The coral used in jewellery is typically red, pale pink, or peach, but it also forms in white, black, brown and, though quite rare, in blue. Usually it is polished to a shine, however peach coral is often left matte, and is known in the trade, rather charmingly, as ‘angel skin’.  In any shade, it is a lovely and apropos summertime gemstone.

Maison Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier when he took over the workshop of his master.  In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the company, but it was Alfred's sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the world-wide brand name of Cartier.

Louis assumed responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company's most celebrated designs, such as the mystery clocks, fashionable wristwatches and exotic Orientalist Art Deco designs, including the colourful "Tutti Frutti" jewels. Cartier also created the famous Panthère brooch of the 1940s for Wallis Simpson.  Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current address at New Bond Street.  Pierre Cartier established the New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant which Cartier bought in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million.

With a seemingly endless list of elite clientele, from kings to maharajas to Hollywood ‘royalty’, Cartier has since become synonymous with glamour and prestige.

In reference to gemstones, an abbreviation of carat, a unit of weight.  One carat is equal to 0.20 grams.

In reference to gold, also an abbreviation of carat, a unit of purity or fineness of gold and gold alloy, expressed as a number out of 24 parts by weight, e.g. '24 carat' signifies pure gold, '18 carat' 18/24th gold in the alloy, et cetera.

Originally derived from the carob seed, called quirat in Arabic, a seed of naturally uniform weight.