Thursday, March 18, 2010

Celebrity Jewellery Watch: The 82nd Annual Academy Awards

Female stars at the 2010 Academy Awards, the unchallenged fashion event of the year, displayed a definite trend in their choice of jewellery: diamond bracelets. Nearly every major actress was wearing some form of diamond set jewel around her wrist, whether it was wide or skinny, on its own or layered, monochromatic or set with coloured stones. The preeminent woman of the night, Best Actress award winner Sandra Bullock wore a diamond line bracelet punctuated with circular diamond set links. Diane Kruger, who played in the Oscar-nominated film Inglourious Basterds wore a simple diamond tennis bracelet, though composed of quite large stones. The ever trend-setting Sarah Jessica Parker wore a number of slim diamond bracelets piled high on one arm, including a diamond rivière necklace that had been looped around the wrist. Demi Moore, Charlize Theron, Mariah Carey, and ingénue Amanda Seyfriend all wore wide diamond bracelets, many dating from the Art Deco era. Maggie Gyllenhaal, one of the nominees for Best Supporting Actress, wore a different style on each wrist, one of which was an Art Deco diamond bracelet set with a large carved emerald and further accented with cabochon sapphires, and the other a yellow gold and diamond Retro cuff.

View the jewels on http://www.thefashionspot.com/featured-stories/news/81334-oscars-2010-fashion-recap

Posted in Antique Jewelry | Comments Off
Monday, December 7, 2009

The mystery of the world’s most expensive diamond

The Wittelsbach Diamond December 2008‚ Christies London

Here’s a story that has a beginning and an end, but no middle.

The Wittelsbach Blue Diamond is a stunning cushion shaped 35.56 carat blue diamond with VS2 clarity, from the famed “Old Mines” of India. This historic diamond was acquired by King Philip IV of Spain in 1664 for the dowry of his daughter, the Infanta Margaret Teresa. After her death it became the property of her husband Leopold I of Austria and Holy Roman Emperor. When the Archduchess of Austria married Bavaria’s Crown Prince in 1722, the diamond became known as “Der Blaue Wittelsbacher” (The Wittelsbach Blue) after the Crown Prince’s family. It remained in the royal family until the last king abdicated in 1918.

In 1931 the “Wittelsbach” is auctioned in a lot under the title of “Austrian Crown Jewels” by Christies, the auction house tries to sell it and although it was knocked down at £5,400 to a purchaser named ‘Thorp’, the general impression is that the diamond remains unsold. Here the mystery begins, the stone does not return to Austria, it disappears. Later evidence shows that it was sold in Belgium in 1951 and again three years later.

In January 1962 a fourth generation Belgian diamond dealer called Joseph Komkommer received a phone call asking him to look at an Old Mine cut diamond with a view to recutting it. He realised the historical significance of the stone and refused. What’s more, he put together a consortium of dealers to purchase the stone. It was bought by a private collector in 1964 and until last week, the diamond was said to be in Bavaria.

On Wednesday 10th December 2008, it went under the hammer at Christie’s for the second time in its history. This time they were successful. The “Wittelsbach Blue” became the world’s most expensive diamond ever sold, going for a record $24.3 million to a very happy Laurence Graff.

Posted in Antique Jewelry | Tagged | Leave a comment
Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Own the genius of Schlumberger

Imagine having the chance to possess a piece designed by one of the world’s foremost jewellery designers of all time…
Imagine being given the chance to invest in a once in a lifetime work of art…
Now imagine you can wear it everyday as a symbol of love…

This Tiffany engagement ring, signed by Jean Schlumberger, who in his lifetime designed jewellery for princes and presidents, socialites and movie stars, is quintisessentially of its time. It epitomises the glamour and free thinking of the 1960’s. As with all signature pieces there is a unique style to this ring. See the fluid lines inspired by natural forms. The cross/over diamond cocoon that holds the centre stone gently without detracting from its magnificence. The cut down settings that Sclumberger himself was so fond of, exposing the maximum amount of the diamonds whilst keeping them safe.

Then there is, the centre stone. A 4.11ct drop shaped old mine diamond. Most likely to have come from the Brazillian mines in the 1700-1800’s and to have been handed down through the generations. Schlumberger would have re-visioned the piece, seen the beauty in another form. Hand drawn a design, the client would have agreed and it would have been made. In a one off comission, the stone and its one hundred accompanying side stones, would have been reset into the ring we see today.

This ring is the epitomy of Jean Schlumberger and his work. It is the living proof that diamonds survive through the ages and are passed on, only to re-emerge with new identities. It is what antique and period jewellery means. To quote Sclumberger himself – ‘it is the way and means to the realization of dreams’.

Posted in Antique Jewelry | Tagged , | Comments Off
Thursday, October 22, 2009

Will you marry me?

Just a simple question. And yet it is accompanied by heart-stopping nerves, breathless anticipation and sheer relief.

That is, if the beloved – and the ring – please.

Why does so much thought go into choosing an engagement ring? Perhaps to answer that best we should go back to the beginning. The gesture has its origins in ancient Egypt where it was believed that the ‘Vena Amoris’ or ‘vein of love’ ran from the third finger of the left hand directly to the heart.

Later, the Romans fashioned ‘betrothal rings’, known as ‘annulus pronubus’, from iron to signify strength and permanence. As time went by these rings began to be crafted in gold with engravings and decoration, such as knots or clasped hands. In the year 860, Pope Nicolas I decreed that a ring was a ‘requirement’ to signify engagement and he stipulated that it must be gold. And so before the end of the first millennium, the gold engagement ring was synonymous with our Western wedding tradition.

And so when you step into Berganza today, you have at your fingertips the largest collection of antique engagement rings in Europe. Dazzled by the range, the styles and the stories, what do we advise our customer to bear in mind?

Uniqueness. An antique engagement ring is not mass-produced as most modern pieces are today. Instead they have been been created as a work of art for a discerning customer. They are like you, individual. Irreplaceable.

Posted in Antique Jewelry | Leave a comment
Tuesday, October 20, 2009

The most mysterious of settings


‘Serti Mysterieux’ or invisible setting as it is known in English has fascinated people for much of the last century. It is based on a very simple premise. You should only see gemstones, no metal should be visible in the setting.

In 1929, a relatively unknown Parisian jeweller named Jacques-Albert Algier developed and patented a method of holding a stone in place without pushing metal over it – no claws, no collets. He did this by carving a groove in the side of the gem and sliding the gem along rails of precious metal, setting gemstone next to gemstone and effectively masking the metal. It gave him what appeared to be an invisible setting.

In Spring 1933, Cartier picked up on this method of setting and used it sparingly, but with an already full catalogue of Art Deco pieces they did not pursue it further.

Enter Van Cleef & Arpels. This was the perfect firm for the ‘serti mysterieux’, with Alfred Van Cleef being an accomplished lapidary (stone cutter) himself and Julien Arpels a stone aficionado. Having founded VCA in 1906 they were keen to make a name for themselves. In December 1933, nine months after Cartier they filed a patent for a process they called ‘serti mysterieux’. VCA were not the only ones to use invisible settings, but of the few houses who did, they alone are responsible for popularising it.

One of the many difficulties in this particular setting is cutting a precise groove on either side of a stone. The stones used were so small and the level of precision required so great that they would have used crude saw blades made of silk and coated in diamond powder. The amount of stones broken in this process was enormous. They needed approximately 50% more stones to account for wastage with this type of setting. Invisibly set pieces would also take months to complete, with the more complicated pieces requiring even longer than that.

Not only did a gemstone have to be grooved in perfectly straight lines, but they also had to be faceted precisely to fit next to each other with no gaps. This calibré cutting required the lapidary and the jeweller to work hand in hand to ensure that all the component parts fit perfectly.
Serti mysterieux was an immediate success. It remains to this day the finest example of the jeweller’s capability for combining beauty with technical ability.

We are very fortunate to have been given the opportunity to purchase this rare vintage example of invisible setting. And, we hope that the lucky lady who gets to wear it will treasure it as much as we have.

Posted in Antique Jewelry, Engagement Rings | Comments Off
Friday, September 25, 2009

Unemployed man discovers largest hoard of Saxon gold ever found

We all dream of striking it rich, that one lucky minute that changes our lives forever. But for Terry Herbert, an unemployed man from Staffordshire the dream has become a reality.

Using his 14 year old metal detector on a friend’s freshly ploughed field in Staffordshire, he stumbled across the largest single find of Anglo-Saxon gold in history. ‘I dreamed of gold night after night until I handed it in’ said Herbert yesterday when the find was revealed to the world.

Since July when the discovery was made there has been some question as to the ownership of the hoard. The laws governing ‘Treasure Trove’ can be complicated to interpret in themselves. They are based on several principles founded on Roman law.

The ‘Treasure Trove’ law written in Edward the Confessor’s time remains almost intact to this day. There are three main deciding factors if something is subject to ‘Treasure Trove’ and therefore property of the crown. 1) if it can be proved that there was an intention to recover it later. 2) No person living can prove ownership either themselves or their descendants. 3) If treasure is hidden it belongs to the crown unless someone else can lay better claim to it.

From the early 1900’s the treasury has paid the finders/landowners the full antiquarian value of pieces they keep (they have declared this treasure trove). While I personally would have nightmares putting a value on the Staffordshire hoard, there is no doubt that Mr Herbert and his friendly farmer are looking at a substantial sum.

The 5kg of gold and 2.5kg of silver are mainly comprised of armaments and ornamental objects. Decorative sword hilts, bosses, pommel caps and helmets are some of the types of articles they have discovered. There are no feminine pieces such as necklaces, bracelets or rings.

Unlike the discovery in 1939 of ‘Sutton Hoo’ which was a burial mound of a Saxon king, there is no context for this discovery. Mercia would have been one of the richest kingdoms in Britain in the 7th century, so it seems likely that it was a hastily stashed hoard from a raiding party. There are perfect examples of shield bosses with chequered ‘millefiori’ inserts and garnet ‘cellwork’ ornamentation. Densely interwoven helmet pieces, and intricately carved sword hilts. Many of the items are similar in style to Babylonian work of this age, suggesting that even in the Dark Ages we were importing jewelled items to our shores.

Although 1345 pieces have been examined so far, there are 56 pieces still remaining in clods of earth. This find will take years to document and understand. One thing is for sure, it will greatly change all we know about the ancient goldsmith’s art and the stones they used.

In the meantime, Terry Herbert is already dreaming about his next treasure.

Posted in Antique Jewelry | Tagged | Comments Off
Thursday, September 24, 2009

Rare 2000 year old jewel unearthed on dig site

For years archeologists have been digging for artifacts in Tel Dor, an ancient town on Israel’s Mediterranean coast. Days, even weeks, will go by without a find of any significance. So imagine the sense of awe that fell on the dig last week when they uncovered a cornelian engraved with a portrait of Alexander the Great. It was 2,000 years old.
To the historian, of course, this piece is enthralling for its story. The Emperor would have passed through Tel Dor in 332 BC on his way to Egypt having just taken Tyre. He died nine years later, just 32 years old, having conquered half the known world.

To the jewellery historian, this piece fascinates for a very different reason: we can identify its source without any doubt. You see, while Berganza has some extremely rare Hellenistic and Roman intaglios in our collection, it is impossible to say with any certainty where they originated from. This piece, however, was unearthed on a University of Haifa dig, with world renowned archaeologists on site to scrutinize the details that reveal so much about jewellery making at that time.

The length of the gemstone is less than a centimeter, and its width less than half that. Yet despite its size, its undeniable quality proves that master craftsmen not only worked in the small rural communities far from the thriving hubbub of the major cities, but they worked for the richest and most influential of customers. After all, this piece would have been extremely costly at the time and could only have been afforded by a nobleman or affluent merchant.

Travel forward through two millennia and an uncanny perspective emerges, one less evident to the historian, clearer to a jeweller today. Alexander may well be seen as the first known proponent of what business gurus call ‘personal branding’. He ordered his likeness carved on more than just seals like this one, but also on coins, mosaics, statuary and buildings all over his empire. A model of personal image making that is now synonymous with not only celebrities but high-profile men and women in boardrooms and ballrooms the world over. After all, as image consultants Elan say, ‘Jewellery is an expression of personal style that has the distinctive power of blending art with fashion. It is in fact … a secret weapon.’

Posted in Antique Jewelry | Tagged , , | Comments Off
Thursday, July 23, 2009

Why diamonds are a girl’s best friend

At a recent auction in Las Vegas I noticed that a quartz necklace of Marilyn Monroe’s in a general state of disrepair was expected to go for $4,000 – $6,000. The necklace was of a basic construction with a polo and t-bar clasp, strung on thread with a gold chain. Some of the quartz drops had become detached and the necklace would have definitely needed re-stringing. The provenance was provided by Christies of New York who originally sold the piece, in the sale of October 1999 under the title “The Personal Property of Marilyn Monroe”. It was accompanied by a photograph of Marilyn wearing the necklace taken by Sam Shaw.

What really surprised me was the hammer price. It eventually sold for $63,000! This was ten times the original estimate!

The estate jewellery market is as strong as ever, it just goes to prove that pieces can just keep going up and up as investments. Some lucky girl may even get the chance to wear this piece in the meantime…

Posted in Antique Jewelry, Estate Jewelry | Comments Off